Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Catalog with too-thin models is voluntarily pulled

The Canadian clothing company, La Maison Simons, agreed to pull its new 36-page catalog after complaints from the public poured in. Their complaints? The catalog featured "photographs of thin, young women, who display more bone than flesh."


Company CEO, Peter Simons, had this to say about the catalog:


Those images are "destructive to a more vulnerable portion of the population which is exposed to anorexia," Simons told The Gazette from his office in Quebec City..."We are into social responsibility here. I'm fully aware of what it is and I'm taking full responsibility for (the catalogue). It's my job to ensure that we are a constructive actor in the community," Simons said. "I should have done better. I should have seen it."


I am happy that Simons recognized the error of his ways, and acknowledged it publically- though it would have been nice if he didn't need public complaint letters to make him do so. I think it sends a powerful message to the clothing industry that people aren't going to just sit back and take in the unrealistic images of women and men.


However, I don't know how much this will do to prevent eating disorders. The fact of the matter is that we don't know what causes eating disorders. We know it takes both a genetic predisposition and an environmental trigger to develop an eating disorder. Does living in a thin-idolizing society make things worse? Perhaps. It certainly doesn't help. But almost unknown research from the late 1990s on the island of Curacao found the rates of anorexia on a fat-is-beautiful island are essentially the same as those found in Europe and the US.


Of course, this is countered by research from an increase in eating disorder behaviors on the island of Fiji after the introduction of American television.


So why don't we say what we do know: this is a good thing to do regardless of its effects on eating disorders. That this kind of advertising is toxic, to women and men, regardless of their potentials of developin an eating disorder. That it doesn't need to cause a clinical disorder before becoming evil. That we don't know how to prevent eating disorders. And that eating disorders have nothing to do with fashion and "looking good."

Building a Straw Model

I think the author of this column is taking the evidence quite out of context. On one hand, I do have to agree with the title:


Which is true- models don't cause eating disorders and there's basically no evidence that they do.

I've said before that the point of banning Size Zero models won't prevent eating disorders. And neither do I think that because it won't prevent eating disorders doesn't mean that it shouldn't be done.

The author of this column in the Times Online holds that, essentially, the main "the lardy rest of us" oppose unhealthily thin models is that we're jealous. In the second paragraph, she says:

On Tuesday morning the Today programme got Professor Susie Orbach on to warn us about something she called “beauty terror”, a concept that seems to work like this: models are very slender young women. This is a state of affairs that is probably bad for them, and a terrible affront to the lardy rest of us. Observing their ethereal beauty, we wish that we, too, looked like a wood-nymph in PVC leggings. Realising that it will never be so and feeling discontented with our lot, we reach with a sigh for the chocolate biscuits. In extreme cases, we may sick up the biscuits we have just consumed, or eschew biscuits altogether, thus compounding our discontent with an eating disorder. Worrying, certainly – but terror? Really?

You know what causes me terror? People who think they know the answer to everything without really knowing anything.
Ms. Shilling proceeds to build a straw man (straw model?) by saying that since athletes and dancers aren't required to be weighed and measured, neither should models. After all, "fashion, like other branches of the entertainment industry, is a confection of fantasy. Lucrative and important as the construction industry is, I don’t think its most passionate advocate would argue that much is expected of builders by way of fantasy."

Ah, but the whole point of ultra-thin models is, as far as I knew, that they wore the clothes better. So that really doesn't get us anywhere. Because "wearing the clothes better" doesn't quite seem like fantasy. And just because there isn't health monitoring of atheletes and ballerinas doesn't mean there shouldn't be- it just means there isn't. They are having hearings on steroids in baseball at the moment. So obviously this issue is relevant, and not just among creators of fantasy.

Even if model and fashion were an industry of fantasy, the health effects of starvation aren't a fantasy. Anorexia and bulimia aren't a costume you can just take off as soon as you exit the runway.

There is a nugget of truth to Ms. Shilling's essay: she says that it's wrong to blame eating disorders and body image woes on models themselves.

If the Government and the press, which reports the “beauty terror” debate with such gusto, really believed that models were responsible for the huge rise in eating disorders they could stop it at a stroke, by agreeing a ban of editorial and advertising images of emaciated girls. But although “blame it on the waif” makes a good soundbite, it is more complicated than that.

Which is all too true. I don't agree with her assessment of the actual problem, but it wrong to blame models and fashion on eating disorders.

Her ultimate assessment, however, consists of truly award winning stupidity:

Guiltiest of all is the vicious late 20th-century trend in food marketing that persuaded (mainly) women that they were “too busy” to cook. Delia Smith’s How To Cheat at Cookingis a perfect example of this wicked vogue. A reprise of her 1971 publication of the same title, aimed at people who “don’t want, or don’t have time, to cook”, the current volume recommends a variety of expensive, processed ingredients, and is already a bestseller.

So if we are really worried (and we should be) about our uneasy relationship with our bodies, the first step towards recovery would be for us as a society to stop blaming our collective disease on the fashion industry and admit that the problem lies not with a handful of unusually attenuated and beautiful young women, but with ourselves: our idle and stupid eating habits, and our idiotic self-delusion in believing that we could all look like models (if only models were a bit fatter and a bit uglier).

Here's a smooshy-faced kitty award for you, Ms. Shilling.

Models, Fashion, and Eating Disorders

Image courtesy of Indexed



Part I: A Zero-Sum Problem

I've shied away from speaking directly about models and the whole "size-zero" phenomenon. Partly because I think it gets away from the ultimate cause of eating disorders: genetics, biology, neurochemistry. Eating disorders date back hundreds of years- long before fashion models. Even in the 1600s, where the ideal body type was far more realistic to what Nature had intended, people had anorexia. Women. And men.

This happened without fashion models, without a diet culture.

And yet.

Yet at the same time, disordered eating is essentially more prevalant than a relaxed attitude around food and body weight. It's The Media, we say. Hollywood. The Fashion Industry. The Patriarchy. All of these are true, in a sense. It certainly normalizes these food and body obsessions of ours. It allows eating disorders to fester and hide.

And, given that dieting is the "gateway drug" to eating disorders, this obsession can trigger (but not cause) EDs.

A lot of the impetus on banning Size Zero models is that it will prevent eating disorders. Or help to prevent them. Which is all well and good, and I certainly don't think it will hurt, but I'm not sure this will do a whole lot to prevent eating disorders on a large scale. It will send a message, and that's the important part. It is a start to ending this body obsession of ours.

Part II: A model of what?

Maybe what we need to be asking ourselves first is: what is a model, anyway? Are they supposed to be models of "good behavior"? Of what clothes to wear and how to look in them? Of what a young child should aspire to one day? Of something else entirely?

It's no secret that eating disorders are rampant in the fashion industry. Most of those body weights are unnatural. I won't go as far to say "all" models are starving, because I really just don't know. But the weights are unrealistic for basically all young men and women out there.

Study after study (the most famous of which was the Minnesota Starvation Study by Ancel Keys) has shown that restricting your diet and forcing your weight below its natural setpoint makes you, in less scientific terms, utterly batshit crazy. Your hair falls out. Your nails stop growing. Your skin gets scaly. You have so many bruises it looks like someone hammered you with a baseball bat.* Your period stops. You can't think of anything but food.

This isn't healthy.

The personal antics and behaviors of those in the fashion industry aside (Kate Moss, anyone?), the ideal woman in this society is fundamentally unhealthy. This is a model? Something that's held up as the highest form of beauty and flattery and achievement?

And if models are supposed to be displaying how clothes are "supposed" to look on people, why are they using people who don't look like almost anyone else in the population? I'm not willowy and 5 foot 9; I'm about 5 foot 5 and muscular and athletic.

On the other hand, what about the models?

Part III: The Fashion Police

Here is the one, over-arching reason I think there should be a regulation of models' body weights: for their own health and safety.

I've read comments on newspaper articles about this issue (most recently in Fashion Week in Madrid), who say that this type of regulation is overly paternalistic. Intrusive.

Yet I had an N-95 mask given to me when I worked at the health department to prevent me from breathing in germs during an outbreak. The lawnmower guy my dad hired last summer had ear plugs. Welders use goggles. These are required by law.

Why? Most companies aren't willing to shell out the money to protect their workers. So the government had to step in and make sure that companies were doing what they were supposed to be doing.

It's the same thing here. We think of models as these independent entities, figures strutting on catwalks, images on magazines. Most of them are employees- of a modeling agency, of a clothing company. If eating disorders are an inherent danger in the industry (as infectious disease is in public health), then there need to be measures to protect the workers.

The public is apt to blame the models. "Stupid girls, being such an unhealthy model for my little girl." Or, "They should just stop."

And that last reason adds fuel to the need for these regulations. People with eating disorders, people whose cognitive abilities are comprimised by starvation, don't realize they're sick. It's called anogosnia- a lack of insight into disease, which is common in many neurological disorders, such as brain injury and stroke. Semantics aside, eating disorders, strokes, and Alzheimers are all brain diseases. Pancreatic cancer and diabetes are diseases of the pancreas. Totally different cause and etiology, yet they are not treated as two totally different entities with totally different insurance coverage.**

Are models victims? Well I don't know.

Are they in need of protection? You better believe it.

*It took me about 8 doctors to figure out that I wasn't bruised up because of medication or klutziness (though I'm sure that didn't help). I took Vitamin C supplements, which helped somewhat. Then my psychiatrist took one look at my battered legs and told me I had a Vitamin K deficiency. Vitamin K is a fat-soluble vitamin and is crucial to helping blood clot. So my fat intake was upped and within a week, the bruises were essentially gone.

**Don't. Start. Me. On. This.

Don't take your own advice, Stavros

I was horrified to find this little article on the newsfeed on the side of this blog. It's about an "Uncle Karl" from the fashion industry giving out weight loss tips. Written by "Stavros" on the website Australian website Frillr, it showed how to shape up for the upcoming beach season. The article was short, but it really was so offensive and disgusting in three short paragraphs that it really didn't need to be any longer.



So it’s summer and you want to hit the sunny beaches but you cannot since you’re still “chubby” - you are probably feeling sad, aren’t you? Well, don’t worry anymore since uncle Karl is here to help you. The eccentric designer has finally “admitted’ what he did to get rid of his disgusting overweight problem. Even though, I know this probably isn’t the truth I would like to share it with you all since it might actually work.

Well, Mr. Karl Lagerfeld recently stated that what he did in order to loose some weight was swishing Nutella chocolate around in his mouth, and then spiting it out. Apparently his starving “hunger” was suddenly vanished, his mouth got full of candid flavors and he got all the energy needed to keep on working - and he didn't need to have a mere bite of anything.

So listen to me carefully since I’m not promoting anorexia and bulimia or any eating disorder, but if you are interested in loosing some extra weight you should definitively try this innovative diet. Because after all it’s absolutely better to be thin and slim than a total pork when it comes to fashion - face it.


Uh, is he not aware that chewing food and spitting it out is one of the criteria for an eating disorder (EDNOS)? Not promoting eating disorders...sorry but my bullshit meter is off the charts.

So Stavros, let me give YOU some advice: I don't really care what's fashionable in terms of looks. But meanness and prejudice and eating disorders are never fashionable. Not matter what you say.

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I'm a science writer, a jewelry design artist, a bookworm, a complete geek, and mom to a wonderful kitty. I am also recovering from a decade-plus battle with anorexia nervosa. I believe that complete recovery is possible, and that the first step along that path is full nutrition.

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Have any questions or comments about this blog? Feel free to email me at carrie@edbites.com



nour·ish: (v); to sustain with food or nutriment; supply with what is necessary for life, health, and growth; to cherish, foster, keep alive; to strengthen, build up, or promote



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